Smather’s Beach, Key West

It’s starting to seem like visits to the tropics are becoming regular occurrences, and I certainly can’t complain about that! After 3 weeks in Costa Rica over the holidays, we recently returned from a week in South Florida. A cousin got married in Miami, and while normally these wedding jaunts back East are whirlwind travels, this time we decided to take our time and spend 6 nights there; 3 in the Keys, and 3 in Fort Lauderdale. [Note: weddings or other family gatherings are perfect events to turn into mini vacations!]

We flew into Miami on a red eye, picked up our rental car, and headed south to the Florida Keys, destination Key West, southernmost point in the Continental US. This drive through the Keys is one that I’ve been looking forward to for years, so having an excuse to head to south Florida made this side trip a no-brainer. The drive ended up taking close to four hours, but with the breathtaking tropical blue water visible on both sides for most of the ride, there were no complaints. (If renting a car beware of the cashless tolls in and around Miami.) Some highlights of the drive were the 7 mile bridge (really, I checked the odometer) and a quick detour through No Name Key near Big Pine to see the Key Deer.

The weather in the Keys this time of year is perfect, it was in the low to mid 80s every day in Key West, and I doubt it ever went below 75, even at night. We stayed in shorts and t-shirts the entire time. A nice spring getaway, even from San Diego! While there, we didn’t do a whole lot other than eat and relax. Each day we spent a few hours napping and reading on Smathers Beach, one of the few places around Key West where there is actually decent sand. Side note: A lot of people picture beaches everywhere in the Keys. Not true, since the Keys are mostly reef, there are actually very few beaches for sunbathing and swimming.

On a previous trip I had been to the Ernest Hemingway house, so we passed on that, but we did go the the Ripley’s Believe it or Not! museum on Duval Street. Though we didn’t end up touring the Hemingway House, we did check out the drinking establishments which he made famous, Sloppy Joes and Captain Tony’s (the original Sloppy Joes). We spent one evening at Mallory Square for the sunset celebration and to watch the performers; definitely a must do if you visit. Most of the other highlights revolved around eating: El Siboney for Cuban food (per recommendation of a local at Sloppy Joes), Blue Heaven for a very nice (and expensive!) dinner, and Havana 1 for more Cuban food. Cough, cough, a trip to the real Havana may have to go onto our list…

So after three days in Key West it was time to head north towards Miami and Ft Lauderdale for the wedding; the main reason we were in Florida. I ambitiously thought we’d be able to do the drive back to Lauderdale and still be able to hit Miami for lunch and a few hours at South Beach, but a late start and traffic through the Keys and into Miami gave me a quick reality check. We still detoured through Miami for more Cuban food, this time to Cafe Versailles which came to us yet again by recommendation. Unfortunately we never made it to South Beach, so that will have to wait for another time.

Of the remaining 3 days, we spent much of it visiting with family around the hotel. We got to have the rehearsal dinner right on the beach in Ft Lauderdale, and the wedding was on Jungle Island in Miami, which we shared with the exotic animals that lived there, including monkeys, baboons, parrots, macaws, crocodiles, flamingos, tigers, and even several ligers!

As expected, it was a great trip with a good mix of fun and family. And remember, next time you attend a wedding, be sure to turn it into a mini vacation!

>> See all photos from Florida and Key West <<

Related posts:

1. Tis the Season … to be Busy
2. Saying goodbye Koh Phangan and heading west to Krabi and the island of Koh Phi Phi
3. Time flies when you’re having fun

Life is Good in Costa Rica

It’s somewhat sad to say, but I’m officially back at home and back to the grind again after an awesome three weeks in Costa Rica. But as with all trips, there are always lessons learned while traveling that can be remembered after returning to normal life at home.

One of the best things about traveling, aside from the obvious excitement of experiencing new places and cultures, is the simple act of taking a breather from life. It’s always eye opening to be able to simply walk away from the chaos and the routine of life at home, and to get back to simply living, if only even for a few days. To be able to wake up and have nothing more to do for the day than to relax, to eat good food, to enjoy good company, and to wander around without an agenda. Even though it is impractical for most people to try to live this way after returning home, for me it’s always a good reminder about how so few of the stresses of life at home are really important, and how much we get wrapped up with being busy with mostly trivial activities.

Every time I arrive home, I try to hold onto those realizations, and when I start getting stressed out with work or bills or finances I remind myself that none of those things are truly important. My focus after this trip in particular is to work on that one simple thing, to try to simplify more and more, to be able to get my home life to contain only those truly important things that really matter at the end of the day. And in particular, to tackle distractions as they arise so they don’t continue to weigh in my mind.

One of the first places we stayed at during our trip was in Puerto Viejo and was run by a lovely French Canadian couple, Pierre and Marice. We enjoyed our stay with them so much that two weeks later, after having dropped friends at the airport in San Jose and with another five days to left of our own trip, we decided to return back to Puerto Viejo and stay at the same hotel again with them. When the time came again for us to part ways, Pierre said something to us that was so simple, but something worth remembering always. In his french accent he looked us in the eyes and and with the utmost sincerity said

Enjoy the rest of your time here, enjoy the rest of your trip, but most importantly, enjoy life. That is the most important.

With those words sinking into my head, we took our leave, and we certainly did enjoy the rest of our trip. And I plan to continue enjoying the trip — the trip of life, and I challenge you to do the same.

Related posts:

1. Life has changed
2. The Struggle of Modern Life
3. Colorado Beer Road Trip – Boulder, Fort Collins, and Denver

Krabi Town Night Market

JANUARY – From the Haad Tian resort on the island of Koh Phangan it’s just a 15 or 20 minute drive along the southwest coast to get to the Thongsala pier. After a great five nights on Koh Phangan, we had an early wake up so we could catch our ride down to the pier. Our goal was to head across the mainland to Krabi on the west side of Thailand, from where we would then hopefully travel on to Koh Phi Phi and perhaps Railey, depending how our time in Krabi and Phi Phi went. Knowing that after New Year’s there would probably be a mass exodus off the island, we decided to go ahead and buy our boat/bus tickets all the way through to Krabi from our hotel the night prior. I don’t recall the cost, but I remember figuring it after the fact, and we only paid a small surcharge to get them from the hotel as opposed to having to wait at the ticket counters, so definately worth it.

The boat ride back to Surat Thani seemed to go much quicker than on the way out to the island five days prior, and before we knew it we were back at the terminal where we quickly boarded a bus en route to Krabi. I still never really figured out how their bus system worked, it seemed every bus trip we took had an unplanned stop halfway through where everyone would deboard and then wait indefinately for another bus to finish the journey. Also, during the stops there were people trying to book you into hotels at your destiation, so I suspect it’s some tourist rip off thing. On the other hand though, it is helpful if you’re travelling during high season since you can secure your hotel without having to stress upon arrival. If you already have a hotel booked, it also seemed that once you arrive in the destination city’s bus terminal that you then get some sort of transport into town as well at no extra charge. From what I could gather, when booking hotels this way the prices seemed to still be on par with the ones presented at the destinations, so I guess it just depends on your style.

This trip was no different in this regard, so from Surat Thani the bus took us part of the way and then stopped. Even though I do admit it seemed like a fair enough process, personally I didn’t feel comfortable booking this way. I’d rather be able to choose a place on sight upon arrival, or research the destination and secure ahead of time. So knowing it was still peak travel time a couple days after New Years, we booked a night in Krabi while we were still in Koh Phangan. And it seems that once you tell the hotel hawkers that you have a reservation, they leave you alone. The other way to do it is to not book anything, and then just lie. You can be sure they’ll ask you at some point, so just tell them you’ve got arrangements and be firm if you don’t want to deal with them. Though having a hotel name for backup will make it easier when you get into town, as you can probably grab a free ride from the bus terminal into town that way.

So as expected upon arrival in Krabi Town, they shuttled us straight over to the Baan Andamaan Hotel, where we were happy to chcek in and have some down time for the rest of the day. Even though most people know Krabi as simply a stopping point on the way to Railey or Koh Phi Phi, we had decided that a night spent in town would break up the travel, and give us time to explore Krabi Town itself, while still catching a good sleep to be ready for the early ferry to Koh Phi Phi in the morning.

Fried bugs and crickets at Krabi night market

Though Krabi Town itself small, there was a great night market right on the main street where we stayed which is definitely worth checking out. It seemed to be a locals market, and there were few other Westerners there. We spent the evening at the market walking around, trying the local treats, and even trying some fried crickets. If you’ve got the time, I think Krabi Town is definitely worthwhile for at least an overnight. Even if you don’t find it very stimulating, it at least gives you a break from the tourist hordes you’ll likely encounter when you travel on.

Getting around in Krabi Town, to and from the stations and such, seemed pretty easy. Much of what you need is walking distance, but it also seemed as though there was always a shuttle roaming around town, and a simple request at any hotel can get you set up if you don’t see one. For local transport in the main area, there are songthaews that drive up and down the street and will pick up up or drop you off where ever you need to go. The next morning was no exception; we got up, had our complimentary breakfast, then grabbed the shuttle to the boat terminal where we purchased our tickets to Koh Phi Phi and just barely made it onto the boat before it left.

Koh Phi Phi was definitely a place we were looking forward to going to, and since it the guidebook gave the impression of plenty of places to stay, we didn’t make any reservations since we knew everything was walking disatance from the pier. The boat ride out from Krabi offers scenery that I’d have to say is pretty much unmatched anywhere, and arriving in Phi Phi was equally stunning. With sweeping cliffs rising up on each side of the island, the pier is located right in the center, at essentially the only flat part of the island. The island is well known as one of the islands that suffered the brunt of the 2004 tsunami, but the development at the pier didn’t give any indication as such.

Even though hotels are plentiful, we actually did have a bit of a tough time finding a room, especially with the horde of people who arrived on the same boat with us quickly filling the town. Evntually we found a cheap place located rightin the center of town, but behind a nightclub. We were apprehensive, but with the lack of rooms and the town filling up, we went with it. It turned out to be fine, truly not a very nice room, but not too noisy, which was our biggest concern.

After checking in, we had the rest of the day free, so we decided to hit the beach. The main beach is located directly across the island from the pier on the other side of the thin strip of land that makes up most of the town, probably just a 10 or 15 minute walk, and only 5 from our hotel. Though way overcrowded, the beach is stunning. It sweeps out to each side for maybe a quarter mile or so, and then rises up and extends out into the Andamaan Sea, creating a nearly fully protected beach and lagoon.

Between our initial walk around looking for a room, and our jaunt over to the beach, we quickly learned that although extremely beautiful, Phi Phi is definitely a tourist trap. Even sitting under an umbrella on the beach cost us. But it turned out that it was a worth the few baht, since without an umbrella the midday sun would have promtly knocked me out.

After a day of destressing at the beach, it was back to the room to clean up, and then time to head out to find dinner. Next up, our second day in Phi Phi, and then heading back to Krabi Town for an attempt at visiting Railey.

>> See all photos from Krabi and Koh Phi Phi <<

>> See all photos from Krabi and Koh Phi Phi <<

Related posts:

1. Koh Phangan after New Years
2. Getting to Koh Phangan from Bangkok, thru Surat Thani
3. New Year’s Eve Full Moon Party, Koh Phangan

JUNE 24 – I had previously taken the Amtrak from San Diego to New York City, and though it was a long and uncomfortable trip riding in coach, it didn’t change my view on traveling by train. Since then, I have always wanted to make the trip up the West Coast by Amtrak. I would have loved to go all the way to Seattle, but as it happened, we were planning a trip to Portland, Oregon, so only going as far as Portland would have to do. So it was settled, we booked one way coach Amtrak tickets to Portland, and then booked our return flights on Southwest. Incidentally, the total price for train plus one way airfare came to within $5 of what round trip airfare would have cost, so it worked out perfectly. I actually did look into the prices of sleeper cars as well, but they were pretty outrageous, so we stuck with coach.

It turned out to be easier for us to leave from Solana Beach rather than San Diego, which is the first station stop north, about 40 minutes from San Diego. We boarded the Pacific Surfliner train there at 7:30 AM, en route to Los Angeles. From there to Union Station would be about two hours. For much of the this leg of the trip the train follows right along the coast, and the view is near perfection. In fact, there are places where the train is closer to the coast than any of the roads or freeways are, and in some places you feel like you are nearly riding on the sand, or in the surf which I suppose is why it’s called the Pacific Surfliner. Once you get into Orange county, maybe an hour or so into the journey, the track cuts away to the northeast and moves inland, making the journey towards downtown Los Angeles, so that’s where the great view of the Pacific ends for the time being.

Typically if you’re going only as far as Santa Barbara, you can remain on the Pacific Surfliner (though it will still require a brief stop in LA), but if you are going further north a transfer is required in Los Angeles. The Coast Starlight is the train that will take you from LA all the way up the coast to Seattle. Based on my other long distance Amtrak journey, I had always thought the Pacific Surfliner trains were the nicest of all I’ve been on. However, I must say, the Coast Starlight was equally nice. Every seat has an electric outlet, which makes using your electronic devices a breeze. There is no need to venture to the cafe or lounge car to seek out an open outlet for charging the phone, iPod, or laptop as was necessary on my previous trip a few years ago. I’m not sure if this is merely a reflection of the times, or if certain trains are newer and have better amenities.

As I’m finding seems to be fairly typical for travelling by Amtrak, we did experience a few moderate delays. The first delay of the trip was about an hour, simply waiting for the train to leave Union Station. Once going though, the ride out of LA is quick, and before you know it you’re cruising through the foothills north of the city and descending back towards Ventura and the coastline, which the train then follows all the way past Santa Barbara, and once again you feel like you’re riding in the surf.

I think it’s pretty typical on the long distance trains for there to be a cafe car and a dining car. The cafe car is where you can get drinks, snacks, and cheap meals; things like soda, beer, chips, hot dogs, salads, burgers and sandwiches. They are nothing special, probably on par with what you would get at a convenience store. On the other hand, the dining car is where you sit down and have someone serve you. I won’t say the food in the dining car is great, but it’s better than the cafe food, and even if your instincts tell you otherwise I suggest you eat there at least once, if nothing else simply for the experience. There is something about sitting down with a drink and some food and watching the scenery fly by that seems part of the quintessential long distance train travelling experience.

The thing you should know if you do opt for the dining car is that it requires reservations, and is not cheap. While not necessarily expensive, it’s certainly not for the budget traveller, as dinner may run you upwards of $20 per person after meal and drink. While I do recommend eating there at least once, I think the way to go on the long distance trains is to bring your own food and then just supplement with the cafe or the dining car for a meal or two. We brought a bag full of fruit, vegetables, and other healthy snacks, so we were well stocked for most of the trip and only went to the dining car and the cafe car one time each.

Regarding the dining reservations I mentioned, it’s helpful to know that first precendence is given to those in the sleeper cars since the price of their ticket includes meals. Because of this little fact, it actually is possible that you won’t even be able to make a reservation. I never experienced this in the past, but on this trip there were a few meals where even if we had wanted to we were not given an opportunity to make a reservation. That said, on the first night we did (just barely!) manage to snag a spot, and had a nice view from our table while we dined as we passed through San Luis Obispo.

After San Luis Obispo it’s smooth sailing through central California and up towards the Bay Area. As you approach Salinas the view transitions to mostly fields of produce on both sides, and before you know it you’re cruising into San Jose, and night has fallen. From there, it’s on through Oakland and up towards Chico, Redding and on into Oregon.

San Jose Train Station

Since the arrival into San Jose is around 9PM or so, there wasn’t much visible scenery beyond there until morning. Now, I know you may be wondering exactly what we were thinking riding overnight in coach seats. Before you dismiss us as crazies, let me assure you that it is actually not too bad, and that it is possible to enjoy a comfortable overnight sleep in the coach seats. There is enough room to recline and there is also a foot rest. I am just a bit over six feet tall and was nearly able to fully extend my legs. There is no comparison between coach seats on the Amtrak train and on airplanes. Train is by far and away more spacious and comfortable. I won’t say the my previous experience of three nights in coach was pure comfort, but one overnight heading up the West Coast is certainly bearable.

After a few hours of broken sleep, I woke as day was breaking, and we were just on our way out of Redding and heading towards Mt Shasta. Passing through the Shasta National Forest, the views in this part of the state are amazing, and this is where you realize that Northern California and its more populous and overdeveloped Southern half are really more like two different states. For about an hour the train cruised right along the river, and in places it was like we were at the top edge of a gorge, with the land dropping off steeply to the side and the white water of the river far down below.

We approached Mt Shasta from the southwest, and actually circled almost half of the mountain and continued on to the northeast, which provided some amazing views as we chugged on towards Klamath Falls and Oregon. Once in Oregon, I was actually quite surprised at the route the train takes. Rather than head towards the northwest and Eugene, the train continues north through some of the most amazing scenery you could expect to see. Straight through several National Forests (Crater Lake, Deschutes, and Willamette I believe), there were no roads to be seen and it seemed as thought we had the forest to ourselves.

About an hour or two from of Eugene is where we experienced our second delay. A freight train ahead of us broke down, causing us to sit idle for three hours, but it couldn’t have happened at a place with more beautiful scenery. Large pines loomed just feet away from the tracks on both sides, and though the delay was undesirable, there couldn’t have been better scenery. The only thing that would have made it better would have been if they let us out for some of that fresh forest air!

Once moving again, there were only two more stops, and they seemed to come and go equally fast. First was Eugene where we were finally afforded the opportunity to get out for a stretch, and next was the small capital city of Salem. From there it was a pretty straight shot to Portland, where we finally joined up again with the Willamette River which we followed straight into downtown.

Overall it was a great trip, taking in total just shy of thirty six hours. One of the best parts of travelling this way is the fact that you are essentially forced to relax. With little to do for a day and a half but watch the scenery cruise by, it is truly relaxation at its finest, as long as you are ok with dealing with and accepting the few quirks of this nostalgic form of travel. A book, some snacks, and some good company are all it takes to have a truly great train experience.

>> See The Complete Amtrak San Diego – Portland Photo Set

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Relaxing in Koh Phangan after New Years

After a fun night at the New Year’s Full Moon Party, we finally decided to call it quits around 2AM. We weren’t sure how we were going to get back to the other side of the island, but we had a hunch we may be able to catch a ride with the truck that had dropped us off. From our hotel, they were doing runs to Haad Rin every hour until 1 or 1:30 to drop people off, and we hoped we’d see the truck and be able to catch a lift back to the hotel, and save us the trouble of finding a ride. From Haad Rin back to to the Haad Tian Resort it was a 20-30 minute drive, and we weren’t sure what the deal was with rides going that far.

As we were walking out of the party area, we recognized a few guys from our resort in the back of a songthaew, and they seemed to recognize us too, and called us up into the truck. Amazed at our luck, we hopped on. Turns out they were going to a party at another resort near ours, so we figured as a worst case we’d be able to get most of the way back to our beds, and then pay more for the full ride or walk the remaining distance. At this point we didn’t yet know we had a kid driving who was barely all of 16 years old, and one crazy SOB. He drove like a maniac on the windy, hilly roads, and though a bit nervous we just laughed it off as a good New Year’s adventure. A few minutes into the ride he pulled over and tried to shake us down for more money, since we essentially just hopped on without his permission. Luckily the two English guys who had already been in the truck sorted it out with him, and told him they paid for all of us. After about 20 minutes of white knuckles and holding on for our lives in the back of the truck, he finally dropped us at the entrance to our hotel driveway, leaving us to walk the last 1/2 mile down the dirt road to the hotel.

After not nearly enough sleep, the following morning e got up and dragged ourselves out to the beach to recover and relax. Most of our New Year’s Day was spent in this manner, sleeping, sunning, and eating. Not a bad day in paradise actually! The following morning we were able to switch into our cheaper, and ironically more favorable, bungalow. And now, after a full day of recovery, we were ready once again to explore more of the island. We hopped on the trusty motorbike once again, and headed off.

At the north of the island is another little island called Ko Mah, which incidentally I’m not sure is actually an island. You can walk to it, but it involves wading across a channel. Nice little excursion where we found some fisherman and just explored, before heading back to the Phangan side for some more beach time. After a few more hours, it was back to the motorbike for one last cruise around the island. Instead of going straight back, we cut through the center of the island where there is little more than a few modest local homes, some of which we saw with pet monkeys outside. For us this was a strange sight, especially since they were chained to trees. Sort of disconcerting, but I suppose no different from leashing your dog.

After one last night at the Haad Tian resort, it was early to bed to catch the morning ferry back to the mainland, from where we would head over to the west coast, to Krabi and Koh Phi Phi.

See all photos…

See all photos…
 

Related posts:

1. New Year’s Eve Full Moon Party, Koh Phangan
2. Saying goodbye Koh Phangan and heading west to Krabi and the island of Koh Phi Phi
3. Getting to Koh Phangan from Bangkok, thru Surat Thani

Entry #4 from Thailand Trip (see entries #1, #2, #3, #5 and #6)

Ao Chalok Lam bay, Koh Phangan

We finally made it to Koh Phangan after a night of traveling from Bangkok. Then, after wading through the chaos at the ferry port we found our ride and eventually made it to the Haad Tian Beach Resort on the North West part of the island. By songthaew (truck that a bunch of people sit in the back of) it was about about a 25 minute drive, part of which was spent picking up a bunch of other people who were heading the same way, and the last portion of which was quite bumpy coming down a windy dirt road to the hotel. The resort was absolultely perfect for what we wanted — beach front, remote, but still close enough to get to the Full Moon Party fairly easily (about a 40 minute drive). Since getting to Koh Phangan had involved a long night and day involving tuk tuks, trains, buses and boats, we were happy to get settled into our room and relax for the evening. We showered and then went back to the hotel restaurant for a beer and some dinner before getting a night of much deserved sleep.

The hotel (or I guess we should call it a resort) was pretty much the only thing in the area, nothing else (except for another resort) within walking distance, so it was good that it had all the amenities. Restaurant, pool, internet, masks and snorkels, books, and as we learned and utilized later on, motor bike rentals. It was the afternoon of the December 29th when we arrived, so it gave us two nights to relax before the big New Year’s Full Moon celebration at Haad Rin.

When we woke the next day, we were bummed to find out what seemed like a little fatigue and tiredness the day prior, had turned into quite the illness for my girlfriend. After the long journey to get here from California, combined with two days of dirty air in Bangkok, she really started feeling not well. So we spent our first full day in Koh Phangan laying low; for her it included a lot of bed time and thai TV (and a few American 80s movies), while for it included some swimming, snorkeling, reading, laying on the beach, writing, and getting acquianted with the resort and what it had to offer.

On New Year’s Eve, she was feeling well enough to be upright for a few hours, so we made the decision to rent a motor bike. For 150 Baht, or just less than $5, we had the bike to ourself all day. It turned out to be one of the best decisions we made the entire trip, and we quickly learned that this is the only easy and cheap way of getting around at your own pace and seeing whatever you want. Throughout the day, we covered a good portion of the entire island, spending the first part back near the ferry port in Thong Sala. We ate lunch there, used the internet, and hit the pharmacy for some antibiotics in hopes that it would speed her recovery. From here we went back north to the remote Ao Chalok Lam bay, where there is really not much going on. Some little shack restaurants on the side of the road and a few isolated guest houses and bungalows. Without knowing where to go, we took a turn down a little dusty road. This was another great decision, as it dumped us out onto a nearly remote and absolutely stunning beach. This was a postcard moment, exactly what you think of when you think of Thai beaches. A few other lucky swimmers, some longtail boats bobbing in the water, blue sky, and nothing else. We lounged here, took a swim, then went out for more exploring.

One of the things we really wanted to do was to climb Khao Ra, highest peak on the island. But feeling how we were, and with the big party quickly approaching, we decided against it. Instead we went in search of some waterfalls. Trying to find them took us into the interior of the island where it was jungle. We found a few, but quite honestly, they were a little underwhelming. I did do a short amount of hiking up the mountain in hopes of finding bigger falls, but after 15 minutes or so and having found little more than a few small waterfalls with overcrowded pools, I headed back to where my girlfriend was waiting with the scooter. From here we went back to Thong Sala to stock up on some groceries for the night and the next day. Fresh fruit, juice, water, and then a big surprise when we tried to some beer. It seems as though no alcohol can be sold between the hours of 2 and 5PM at the grocery store! But strangely we were able to go next door and get what we needed with no problems.

Supplies procured, we hopped back onto the motor bike and raced back to the resort. It was sort of a comical moment, as all the last minute arrivals to the island for the big party night were making mad dashes to their accomodations. We saw quite a few bikes with couples on them, precariously balancing backpacks while not so safely going a little too fast for the island roads. Though in fairness, we were doing the same; both of us on the scooter with a backpack of fruit, juice and beer, and another bag with water and snacks tucked between my feet. It was a fun ride back, and we even got to see the sun go down over the water.

Fire Dancer, Full Moon Party

Arriving at the hotel, we now had a couple hours to prep for the big night. As I noted, the resort was in a pretty remote location, so the manager pre-arranged taxi service to Haad Rin. It was pricey at 200 baht per person, but on a night like New Year’s Eve, you don’t have many options, and taking a motor bike isn’t really an option either. The rides were every hour or two hour from 6 until midnight I believe, and I think we went for the 8:00 ride. I should note that it is certainly a possibility to stay in Haad Rin and avoid the transportation issue, but then you run the risk of not being able to get away from the party. For us, it was well worth staying a bit away from Haad Rin and dealing with it. Hotels in and around Haad Rin also sell out many months in advance, so if that’s your goal, plan ahead. It is a good bet though, that most hotels on the island will be able to get you to the party, as the majority of the island have the intention of spending their New Year’s there. (Side note: Travelfish was an invaluable resource when trying to plan where to stay on the island)

The ride was full and fun, with about 12 of us from the resort packed in the back of a pickup truck, and we made it to Haad Rin. I’m not exactly certain of how it was supposed to work, but it seemed that they required you to pay an entrance fee to even get into the area, and being that by now it was only a few hours away from midnight, I wasn’t in any position to argue. Maybe it was a rip off, maybe not, but it wasn’t any excessive amount, so we paid it, got our bracelets, and then headed down the main street to find some dinner. The scene was already beginning to be quite a spectacle, with the entire area of Haad Rin being quite a different place from the remote and laid back North West part of the island. Restaurants, bars, vendors, and shops lined the main street, so we decided on what looked like a safe place to eat. Some good food, a few beers, and we journeyed down to the beach.

We finished dinner and then made our way through the masses of people filling the street in the area where meets the beach. The short walkway down was filled with vendors, all of the trying to sell you the famous buckets of Thai whiskey (or whatever poison you chose). I couldn’t resist, so chose my bucket with vodka, and a guy who was probably all of sixteen years old proceeded to dump the entire thing into the bucket and then added a can of 7-Up. Moving onto the sand, there were nightclubs lining the beach in the both directions, vendors squeezed in where there was space, and several DJ stages out on the sand itself. With fire spinners, dancers, and already a fair amount of drunk people, the party was starting to ramp up at this point, as the New Year was just a few short hours away.

It was now that I finally realized just how beautiful this beach actually was. Though we actually never saw it during daylight hours, with the brightness of the full moon you could easily see that it was an absolutely stunning beach in an absolutely stunning location, and there’s no doubt that the original full moon partiers picked the perfect site. Wide and flat, spanning probably close to a mile in length, bordered by sloping hills with a scattering of guesthouses as it rose up into jungle on both ends, and with shallow waters going out into the bay, it is a gorgeous location. And even on this night, the craziest and most crowded night on this beach of the entire year, if you walked in either direction you could actually find some open space. The only thing to watch out for was drunk people already starting to pass out in the sand. On this night there was not a cloud in the sky, the music was bumping, and the party really made for a magical evening.

As the New Year started closing in, the club DJs started doing the countdown, and at the stroke of midnight fireworks exploded in all directions, and a few different stages set fire to “Happy Near Year” and “Full Moon Party” signs which were set up just for this purpose. I have a feeling that this was just the start of a long night for many people, but for us, we just cherished the moment. Being there for such an event is just something that can be explained unless you are there. I would also like to point out that prior to the trip I had seen quite a bit of negative press regarding hte party, talking about drugs, violence, and vandalism. Though based on our experience, everyone seemed to be in great spirits, and I didn’t witness any problems. In fact, when we were leaving the hotel, people were giving me a hard time for the fact that I carried my little day backpack, saying that I would most certainly lose it or have it stolen in the chaos of the evening. But I had no problems. Of course I kept my eye on it and didn’t do anything stupid, so maybe that played a role in our safety and our returning home with my bag, camera, and video camera all in tact. Though I suspect that if we stayed until sun up, we may have seen a different side of things.

For us, the end of the evening came around 2AM, at which point we finally decided it was time to get back to the hotel. Though getting back to the hotel and the rest of our Koh Phangan experience will have to wait until my next entry.

Up next, getting back to our resort, the rest of our time on Koh Phangan, and then further south!

See all photos…

See all photos…
 

Related posts:

1. Koh Phangan after New Years
2. Getting to Koh Phangan from Bangkok, thru Surat Thani
3. Saying goodbye Koh Phangan and heading west to Krabi and the island of Koh Phi Phi

Insects at a Thailand Market

As I’ve written recently, I have been dabbling with vegetarian, vegan, and raw diets. I have also been honest in saying that while shifting my diet, I do still eat meat and dairy on occasion. I won’t go into extensive detail about the reasons for this since I’ve explained them in the past, but I will say that it’s still something I still think about often. And after seeing Anthony Bourdain speak last week, I’ve been thinking about diet choices, personal beliefs, and how they relate in the context of travel and culture.

I am a big fan of Anthony Bourdain, and I don’t think it is news to anyone that he is very outspoken in his dislike for vegetarians and vegans. His claim during the presentation (and in interviews I’ve read) is that he doesn’t have any real problem with vegetarians, but that he thinks they make bad travellers. And interestingly, for the most part I agree. (Though I do think there is some grey area.) He believes that while traveling to most places, trying to stick to a vegetarian or vegan diet is so limiting that not only will you likely miss out many new and different foods and experiences, but you may also very well offend the culture which you are trying to explore. In short, he says what’s the point of traveling if you will take home with you?

In each culture, there are norms and standards, and when you try to apply your own, you may very well end up inadvertently being offensive. Out of respect we should accept new customs while travelling, and when applicable accept other’s generosity, even if it offends our moral standards as they exist at home. I believe this applies in general and in the context of food. While traveling, new friends are made and great bonds are formed over a good meal or drink, so being open to these potentially new or different experiences is critical in getting to experience a place or culture.

Stepping back for moment, let me explain my beliefs. Personally, my decision to stay away from most meat and dairy is based on 3 central issues. Health, the environment, and animal welfare. I don’t believe in the industrial and factory food systems that have emerged in this country, and I don’t like to support them. That said, I don’t have any problem with concept of occasionally eating meat, I only have a problem as it exists in our broken factory food system. I won’t argue this point, since it’s not the piont of this article, and as noted, I’ve already hashed it out here. To minimize my impact, and still eat according to my beliefs, I typically limit my meat/dairy intake to about once per week, and always try to opt for organic, sustainable, and free range products.

When we are at home, and in our own culture and around our own customs, eating a vegetarian or vegan meal is a choice we are free to make. But when entering a new culture and expecting to get that same meal when it is out of the norm is a rather narcissistic notion. Part of why we travel (hopefully) is to learn about new cultures, push our limits, and try new things. This doesn’t mean that you need to intentionally seek out meat if you don’t normally eat it, nor should you look for the most exotic creature to eat when not necessary. But you should keep an open mind and be willing to try new things when opportunies arise, even if it is not normal for you at home.

If traveling within our own culture or to a place where customs are similar, it is a little easier to abide by our beliefs, and maybe a little less disrespectful to decline offers to share food. And if we are at a friend’s home for a meal, maybe we can expect them to respect our beliefs. Though Bourdain did also extend his “good traveler rule” to going to Mom’s of Grandma’s for dinner, saying that when you go to Grandma’s for a home cooked meal, you should graciously accept what is being offered, as you are in her home and it’s her way of sharing a bit of what she has. I sort of agree, but still think there is some grey area here.

Obviously our food system here in the United States (and much of the Western world) is pretty much broken, so I do think withholding from purchasing certain things and taking a stand against factory food (and really all fast food) is good thing. But again, I don’t think this is the intent of what he is getting at. (Interestingly Bourdain did say he feeds his daughter only organic, and he implied that he despises Mcdonald’s.) I think really this applies as Westerners traveling abroad. So for instance, if you are a vegetarian staying in a small village somewhere in rural Cambodia, and someone offers you some chicken which was running around just an hour earlier, I think without a doubt you should accept it. This chicken and the factory chicken we avoid at home are two entirely different animals, and here the reward far outweighs any belief that we shouldn’t be eating that meat.

I already made note how I think there is some grey area in Bourdain’s statement. In addition, I do think there are other situations where the decision is a tough call. Being offered food or to share a meal is one thing, and though it’s probably in our interest to accept, there are still times when I believe it may be appropriate to respectfully decline. If you are being offered something that is so foul, or so viciously crosses your moral boundaries, I think it may be ok to say “no thanks”. And what if traveling is some remote village and you are offered meat from an animal that is endangered or protected, should we respectfully eat it, or is it our duty as a global citizen to turn it down? In my mind, this is a tough call with really no easy answer. And if you are a vegetarian travelling solo, I certainly think there are ways to seek out veg meals while still immersing yourself in the local culture and trying new things and not offending anyone’s taste.

My feeling is that if we can respect our own beliefs most of the time, while bending the rules on occasion, that is good enough. I can pretty easily here in Southern California be curious and try new foods while still sticking to a vegetarian diet. But I also think that pushing limits or stretching norms when called for is a good thing. By doing this we are most of the time respecting our morals, health, beliefs, and the environment, and the trade off is getting to try some new things and share experiences with other’s as well.

Ultimately, I do really understand what Bourdain means, I get his point, but I also think that we can still choose what is important to us while walking the line between adhering to our beliefs and still being good, curious, and respectful travellers and guests. Though while travelling or eating in someone else’s home, trying new things and graciously accepting generosity typically will be an enriching experience.

What are your thoughts?

Related posts:

1. Organic whole foods diet and reduced hunger pangs
2. Meat – to eat or not?
3. Eating a Raw Diet while surrounded by meat eaters

The pool at Monte Carlo, Las Vegas

I spent the past weekend in Las Vegas with my girlfriend and some of her friends. Aside from the fact that we both got sick during our stay (which sucks because getting sick is something that rarely happens to either of us), we still had a really great weekend. It’s a bit ironic because typically Vegas wears you down quickly, but after this trip I came back relaxed and mildly rejuvenated, except for my lingering sniffles and head congestion.

The drive out from San Diego was quick and easy, we left Saturday morning and had the smoothest ride I’ve ever had heading out that way. There was pretty much no traffic at all. We got in around 3:00PM and checked into our room at the Monte Carlo. The Monte Carlo wouldn’t be our first recommendation, nor is it the best location on the Strip, but it is affordable and has all the necessary amenities. When we stay there it is typically because we have friends who are staying there as well, and it just makes things easy.

Something new that we’ve been doing when we go away is taking a cooler full of food, and that has been working out great for us. We are able to save money by eating out less when we don’t want to, and we don’t end up stuffing ourselves with crap food. At the very least we get a healthy “homemade” breakfast, our daily fruits and veggies, and then we can choose to eat out for lunch or dinner if we want, without absolutely needing to.

After arriving, our Saturday was pretty mellow. We did a little gambling (no big winning), dinner with friends at d.Vino in the Monte Carlo, then we walked over to check out Aria and City Center (which were both under construction when we were there last year).

After a great morning workout in the fitness room the following day, we drove off the Strip and went for a raw lunch at Go Raw Cafe, which was really yummy. Afterwards the afternoon was spent at the pool, followed by dinner at Sushi Samba at The Venentian and then the Blue Man Group performance. We both were in agreement that Sushi Samba was amazing. It’s a blend of Asian, Peruvian, and Brazilian, and all we could say was that it works. Really, really good stuff. As for Blue Man Group, we both enjoyed it, but beyond that I’m still not sure what to say. Definitely creative, entertaining, interesting and funny, but also a bit weird, in defiance of a single label, and a bit difficult to properly describe.

To get over to the Venetian from Monte Carlo, we tried out the new monorail, but weren’t overly impressed. It’s $5 per person per ride, and not all that convenient. The amount of walking we did to get to and from the station was probably not that much less than the amount we would have walked had we walked down the Strip to our destination. Everything is on such a large scale in Vegas that walking “across the street” to MGM to the monorail station took 30 minutes, and another 20 minutes to get from the destination stop into the shops in the Venetian for dinner. Nonetheless, it was another great night out in Vegas!

Monday was check out day, so the plan was to leave the room and spend the afternoon at the pool. We got sidetracked in the casino on the way to the pool and I won about $200. Then after a few hours at the pool, we got sidetracked again on the way to the car, and I won another $250 (after spending $100), so that was a nice note to leave on. Both times it was on the Wheel Of Fortune machines. They seem to be good luck for me. The winnings weren’t enough to make the trip free, since we still spent on the hotel toom, the show, and dinners, but they were enough to leave a few dollars in my pocket, and ensured that we actually had a net positive on our gambling for the weekend. That is probably the first and last time that will happen for me. Leaving Las Vegas without losing money gambling always makes for a good trip!

Related posts:

1. A Whirlwind weekend. SAN-BDL: CT, MA, RI
2. Weekend in Idyllwild at the Quiet Creek Inn
3. Back to semi-reality from Thailand

Hualamphong Train Station, Bangkok

We just barely made it to the train station in Bangkok for our overnight train to Surat Thani, but we were now finally aboard the train, ready to head south to the islands in the Gulf of Thailand. We settled into our first class cabin, and as we pulled away from the station, we enjoyed the relative peace and quiet of the train after fighting with Bangkok traffic only hours earlier. The peace didn’t last long though, as there was a rowdy British group in the cabin next door, though this much was expected considering most of the passengers on the train were likely heading to the islands for the upcoming New Year’s celebrations.

There are a plenty of options for a trip like this, as there is quite a regular schedule of trains and buses that head to Surat Thani, the gateway to the islands of Koh Samui and Koh Phangan. Most trains offer 1st, 2nd, and 3rd class tickets, both with and without AC, but there are only two overnight trains, and I believe only one of those offers 1st class. Wanting to maximize our time in Bangkok and also to save a night of hotel cost, we opted for the overnight train with the 1st class cabin accomodations. If you opt for the same, I recommend booking ahead if you are travelling during a peak time like we were. During summer you can probably buy tickets at the station on the day of departure, but for a peak travel time like Christmas or New Year’s I’d recommend securing your tickets ahead of time. You can email the train station direct as I had tried to do, but based on my experience and other forums online, you won’t get a response. That leaves the options for booking ahead very small, so I turned to a travel agency. I was wary at first, but Traveller2000 seemed to have a good reputation online, which I can also now vouch for. The surcharge was minimal (a few dollars), and the tickets were delivered as expected to my hotel in Bangkok. This left our only task for departure night to get to the station on time, which we just barely did.

(By the way, probably one of the best resources online for help in planning a trip like this is Seat 61 and their Thailand page Also, this page discusses the trains and how to buy tickets.)

But now all that was settled, and we were slowly chugging out of the city, and as the lights faded we tried to get settled in to the cabin. A first class Thai cabin includs a sink (which makes washing simple), air conditioning, and a couch which somehow folds up and turns into two beds. To go to the bathroom however, you need to head to the squat toilet at the end of the train car. On this particular train there was no snack car, which meant the only options for food and drink were to either eat what we packed or buy the meals offered by the staff (and randoms) who walk through the car offering service. I first assumed this was unnecessary and went out seeking the snack cart, but realized the people walking through the cars were the only options. From time to time the calls of “Juice Juice” or “Beer!” were heard from the hall as men and women came through offering orange juice and buckets of beer. It seemed the only food option was when the steward came around during the first 30 minutes to get us settled in the cabin. So if you don’t buy anything at that time, you will go without.

Around 6AM I was awake and packed up and ready to hop off, knowing it was close to the expected arrival time in Suratthani. They do announce such things, but I can never understand what they say, even in the States, and so I just prepare myself around the scheduled time and am ready to jump off if it’s the correct station. As it turned out on this day though, we were several hours delayed, a fact which I didn’t actually figure out until it was too late to go back to sleep.

Getting on the boat bound for Koh Phangan

Prior to leaving, I had read up on the options in Surat Thani, and was well informed that the train station was a fair distance from any of the ports that ran ferries to the islands, so I knew we had to take a bus to one of them. My goal was to find the local bus, to avoid all the tourist riff raff, but that proved virtually impossible. We walked up and down the dusty street trying to find some office that wasn’t a private agency, and were followed the entire time by the local touts trying to sell us on their buses. They were not overly aggressive, but in general they were doing their best to tell me they were valid ticket sellers and they were my only option to get to the ferry port. Not wanting to waste the entire morning trying to save a few dollars and keep my pride in tact, and after seeing most of the buses fill up and leave with the rest of the train passengers, it seemed this was about the only option. The price wasn’t actually too bad, so we just got our tickets and hopped on. We didn’t know which of the ferry ports we were heading too (there is Raja, Songserm, and maybe one other), but at least we were moving again.

It turned out that we got delivered to the Raja ferry port, and also that the tickets we bought in Surat Thani were for both the bus and the ferry, so that was easy. At this point it was just a wait until ferry departure to Koh Phangan. We had some lunch in the terminal, hung around for a bit, and then finally got the call that the boat was ready. The ride was uneventful, but of course being that this was our first time in the Gulf of Thailand, we enjoyed taking in the beautiful scenery. If I recall it was a couple hour ride, and then we at last arrived at Koh Phangan in the late afternoon. Because of the holiday, we had a hotel all lined up for four nights at Haad Tian Beach Resort, so they provided free pick up at the terminal. I was happy to have the ride arranged, because after nearly 24 hours in transit, and rides on a train, bus, and boat, neither of us were in the mood to seek out a taxi or deal with the throngs of people and madness that occur when a large ferry arrives at a small island several days before New Year’s Eve.

Coming next, getting acquainted with Koh Phangan and our first New Year’s Eve Full Moon party celebration.

See all photos…

See all photos…
 

Related posts:

1. Arrival in Bangkok, Khao San, and Grand Palace
2. Koh Phangan after New Years
3. Saying goodbye Koh Phangan and heading west to Krabi and the island of Koh Phi Phi

Riding along the US / Mexico border

Day 1 – San Diego to Alpine
We left at about 9:30am from Crystal Pier in Pacific Beach after a few goodbyes, and were riding a high heading out of the city. We made some good progress, stopped for a pizza lunch, then hit the road again. Our last 20 miles were a serious uphill battle, and around the time our weary and not yet road accustomed legs nearly gave out, we had completed 50 miles and reached the Ma Tar Awa RV Park just east of the Viejas Casino. We were too late to check in, as the office had already closed, but we saw someone cleaning who let us slip in on the agreement that we would pay our dues in the morning. It wasn’t quite dark yet, but being that it was late April and were at an elevation of a few thousand feet, it got chilly quick. There was no dinner to be had anywhere, so we snacked on what was in our packs, set up our tents, and were quickly off to sleep.

Day 2 – Alpine to Jacumba
Though the chilly mountain air made waking up difficult, the wild turkeys and their noises made waking necessary. I was a bit slow in rising due to the cold and some sore legs, but eventually we made it to the campground store for some snacks, and then were on the road again. The morning started in much the same way that it ended — with an uphill climb. We labored uphill until we peaked at around 4200′, then cruised into Pine Valley for some lunch. After a solid meal and a serious mental pep talk we headed out. That night we made it into Jacumba, after completing only a mere 40 miles. Not a lot of mileage, but after all that climbing and not enough preparation, we were happy to splurge a bit at the Jacumba Hot Springs Hotel, right next to the Mexican border. We soaked in the hot springs, showered, had dinner and a beer at the hotel diner, and set in for another good night’s sleep.

Day 3 – Jacumba to Glamis
In the morning, while eating breakfast, we met another cyclist who had come from Northern California and was heading to Arizona. After introductions and some chit chat, it was decided that he would join us for a bit. We prepped for the day, then headed out. The big event for the day was a 3000′ drop over 15 miles down into the desert valley, on the freeway shoulder no less. We covered this ground in no time, and put in 40 miles before hitting El Centro for lunch. From there we headed north into the Imperial Valley, through Brawley, and riding a tailwind decided to push towards the Glamis sand dunes. With the sun setting, aching legs, and no campgrounds for miles, we decided to do a bit of renegade camping behind some dunes. It was a 90 mile day and I was hurting, so it felt great to put up the tent and have a dinner that consisted of a 7-11 sandwich and a cherry pie. Not exactly healthy, but after a day like this quite satisfying.

Renegade camping in Glamis sand dunes

Day 4 – Glamis to Blythe
We woke up and rode into Glamis, which consists of exactly one general store containing supplies for the all the people who party and ride their ATVs, dirt bikes, and trucks in the recreation area in the dunes. I had a stellar microwave breakfast there, and stocked up on water since it would be more than 40 miles until the next place of civilization. Even though it was still late April, we were in the desert and daytime temperatures were soaring into the 90s, so water supplies were essential. The ride was long and hot, and for much of it we were passing through the farmland of the Imperial Valley, which is all supported by a series of canals diverted from the Colorado River. After riding 70 miles today, our arrival in Blythe was joyous, and once again we decided to splurge on a hotel where we could cool off. Our new cycling friend who had joined us from Jacumba was leaving our company here, so we celebrated with some margaritas which were made in a blender he was carrying. (He packed a lot of strange items he brought along.)

Day 5 …
Continue Reading…

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Related posts:

1. Bicycle trip from San Diego to Phoenix
2. Colorado Beer Road Trip – Boulder, Fort Collins, and Denver
3. Baja California Trip Memories